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Many cisterns are still in use. El Albaicin is a warren of   You should then retrace your steps to the top of Calle de
        narrow, winding streets constructed over the ages with   Agua and down Calle de Pagés until you enter Plaza de
        no thought for town planning.                       San Bartolome that contains, inevitably, another church
        The first plaza encountered, after a few minutes walking,   that was built on the site of an older mosque. The Church
        is Plaza del Salvador. At one side of this square is the   of San Bartolome boasts a beautiful Mudejar tower.
        Casa de Yabquas, a Morisco house with Nasrite, Gothic   Take Callejon del Matadero into Brujones and so to the
        and Renaissance decoration. Opposite is the Aljibe de   Mirador and Church of San Cristobal. You are now at the
        Polo and on the third side, dominating the square, the   highest point in El Albaicin with the city and its walls
        church of El Salvador. The church was built in the 16th   spread out at your feet.
        century on the site of the main mosque. At the time of   At the foot of the Mirador you will see the beginning of
        the reconquest, El Albaicin had a total of twenty-six   steeply descending streets on which, if you count them,
        mosques.                                            you go down over 120 steps into the Cuesta de
        Leave this Plaza by heading down the left-hand side of   Alhabaca, where you turn right.
        the church into Plaza del Abad where you will see a very   About halfway down Cuesta de Alhabaca look out for
        elaborate aljibe known as Bib-al-Bunud. Keep left down   Carril de la Lona off to your left. A diversion down here
        the Calleja de las Tomasas and then right as you go   takes you to the Puerta Monaita, once another entrance
        around the Convento de las Tomasas and into Cuesta de   to the Alcazaba Cadima. Stay on the twisting Carril de la
        las Cabras. Go straight ahead until you reach the Mirador   Lona and in a few minutes you will arrive at the Convent
        San Nicolas and be amazed by possibly the most      of Santa Isabel la Real with an ornate and elaborately
        exceptional views of the Alhambra, the city and in the   carved Isabelline entrance and just beyond that the
        distance the Sierra Nevadas. Behind you, as you look out   Palace of Dar Al Horra.
        over the city, is the Church of San Nicolas.        In the 15th century, this palace was built on the site of the
        Walk up the left-hand side of the church into Callejon de   Ziri Alcazaba and housed the Sultana Aixa, mother of
        San Cecilio. You will see the Chapel of San Cecilio that   Boabdil after she was disowned by her husband who
        was built on the gate to the former Alcazaba Cadima; the   then married a beautiful Christian woman, Isabel de Salis.
        Ziri built fortress of the 11th century. The Puerta Nueva   Return to the Cuesta de Alhabaca and continue
        with the typical turret and defensive zig zag design of   descending until you arrive at the Elvira Gate, at one time
        Moorish gates replaced the original gate. The Puerta   the principle gate into the city.
        Nueva leads into Plaza Large. It is usually full of colourful
        market stalls and surrounded by cafés and bars, still   You will now have time to consider some of the explicitly
        performing its function as the busiest thoroughfare in the   descriptive street names used in El Albaicin to describe
        district.                                           the activities found there. Calle Ladron del Agua (Water
        Leave Plaza Large via Calle de Agua until you reach   Thief Street), Calle Arremangadas (Rolled Up Street),
                                                            Calle del Horno de Vidriol (Glass Oven Street), Placeta
        Calle de Pagés. You may now walk up Calle de San    del Mentidero (Gossip Square), Peso de la Harina (Weight
        Gregorio Alto until you reach the outer city walls and the   of Flour), and Calle Oidores (Judges Street), all very
        Puerta de Fajalauza. This gate has an impressive minaret   useful for the first time visitor in the 15th century.
        and barrel vault and was the start of the road to Guadix.

   16                    April 2019
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